Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 31, 2024

Milliner & Mantua Maker

The Marietta Intelligencer, October 29, 1846

Miss Ellen Young respectfully informs the Ladies of Marietta and Harmar that she is ready to commence the above named business at her Residence on 5th street, East of the College, at the house of M. Deterly, where she can be found at all times by those who choose to favor her with their custom. 

She intends to have on the newest Eastern Fashions.

All orders from the country shall receive immediate attention.

N.B. She will also attend to Embroidery and plain sewing.

Marietta Oct. 14, 1846.





Wednesday, December 14, 2022

Milliner & Mantua Maker

The Marietta Intelligencer, October 29, 1846

Miss Ellen Young respectfully informs the Ladies of Marietta and Harmar that she is ready to commence the above named business at her Residence on 5th street, East of the College, at the house of M. Deterly, where she can be found at all times by those who choose to favor her with their custom.

She intends to have on the newest Eastern Fashions.

All orders from the country shall receive immediate attention.

N.B. She will also attend to Embroidery and plain sewing.

The Marietta Intelligencer, October 29, 1846






Wednesday, March 23, 2022

Advocate of Equal Suffrage, Women Smoking and Drinking, Campaigned in Civil War Days

The Marietta Daily Times, April 7, 1938

During the period of the Civil War, campaigners for equal suffrage continued active and pioneer crusaders for "women's rights" appeared frequently before audiences in Marietta.

Among editors here there was a wide divergence of opinion at the time as to the conduct of and the justification for the war between the states. President Lincoln was not without his detractors. But there was harmonious accord on at least one proposition. Only the male of the species was qualified to conduct affairs of business, industry and government. Only the lords of creation should partake of political pie.

Away back in the early fifties there was a "bloomer" epidemic apparently starting, of all places, in Philadelphia. At first a sensation actuating near-violence by hoodlum mobs, the movement spread even to Marietta. A local editor comments at the time:

About Bloomer Costume
"The bloomer costume has become so common as to attract but little attention. But why are not the waists loosened? The dress is not made conducive to health by merely shortening the skirts. Off with the corsets - or the health argument in favor of the costume loses much of its power."

This man, and others, lived to regret their lack of prophetic vision. It appeared a trivial petticoat rebellion, at most. In a decade they were to learn that the phenomenon was not without portentous significance.

Files of many newspapers in Marietta and nearby cities reveal items dealing with the spread of the feminist movement in the early sixties. Invading crusaders invariably were women. Here is the editorial hail and farewell of one Marietta paper to one such who held forth in the court house on the night of December 5, 1864:

Called "Brainless Creature"
"On Monday night, a brainless, senseless creature, clothed in female apparel (doubtless a female, though we could not vouch for that) delivered a ranting, roaring Women's Rights harangue at the Court House in this city. Our reporter having been absent, we are unable to give a synopsis of this piece of femme de nonsense; but we learn that she 'spread it on' pretty muchly! - asserting the right of females to take part in elections, fill public offices, and do all other things which men may of right do, and declaring it to be the height of man's ambition to chew tobacco, smoke cigars and drink whiskey."

Audience Unsympathetic
"We do not know that she announced herself in favor of doffing petticoats and donning breeches, but see no reason why she should not have done so. The audience was an unsympathizing one, and manifested disapprobation in various ways, doubtless thinking such dubious characters better qualified for pinning up three corners of a diaper than instructing them in the rights to which females are entitled.

"Of course the lecturer was affronted and left in high dudgeon, declaring that she 'had always heard Marietta was a selfish place.' May the good old city continue to be selfish!" 

 

Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Dewey Follett Revolts Against Black Clothes

The Marietta Times, February 8, 1931

The late Attorney A. Dewey Follett might have been known to many Mariettans as one of the city's "best dressed" men a half century ago, but he might also be accredited with setting the pace for what is termed "collegiate" or sports-wear ensembles, and of modern styles, according to William G. Sibley, old time Marietta College friend of the attorney who comments on what Dewey wore away back in the 1880s in the last century. Mr. Sibley remembers the toggery of his old Marietta College days and what other folks wore in those days. He wrote about it in his latest "Along the Highway" column in the Chicago Journal of Commerce recently.

This thing of having the courage to abandon "black" clothes that were worn almost universally by most all young men 50 years ago is attributed to Mr. Follett, and Mr. Sibley was not far behind in setting the pace for more colorful raiment - at least something not so either formally dressy or "age-y" as black for the steady raiment of a college boy. Here is Mr. Sibley's column:

Solemn Black

We remember one day when we were a boy in Marietta an amazing sight on the sidewalk It was Dewey Follett, a brilliant young fellow, who, after accumulating the first honors of his class in college, had gone to Cornell University for a course in law. There he had picked something up - nothing less than the courage to abandon black clothes.

Everybody wore black then, except in summer, when professional men shifted to linen suits, one to wear this week when the other was in the family washtub. The first suit that gave us joy was black, with a long-tailed coat of the style called Prince Albert. That was in our junior year in college - the first tailor-made garment we ever had after we were eight years old and first was suspenders. All the students wore black, and if their parents were prosperous, preferred long coats. Occasionally there were exceptions who wore blue.

Looked Like Snow Storm

Well, Dewey Follett came out in a sack suit that looked like a miniature snow storm, wool and almost white. He was the observed of all observers. That was the first revolt we saw against black clothes for men. It was a sack suit, and soon other daring exponents of style shed their dark, double-breasted coats, worn in winter and summer, for light colored materials. The next year we had a brown herring-bone coat and vest, and a pin-check plaid of medium gray trousers, and were inordinately proud of them. They would be called extremely modest now.

Occasionally an Englishman came to town in conspicuous plaids that looked like checkerboards and was a sensation almost as conspicuous as our professor of Greek was when he ventured forth in a tail gray stiff hat with a very narrow and curly brim.

When we escaped from college we took to grays that grew lighter and lighter, and for 40 years never wore anything else for everyday. Now we observe that the merchant tailors are still trying to get men to wear something besides black in the evening. They don't seem to make much headway. The Tuxedo coat has held them back. It is neat and comfortable. Many a man who would easily be weaned from swallow-tails clings to his black dinner coat.

But for formal occasions black is the almost universal custom. It used to be so in business hours, but now a metropolitan paper notes that bankers are shedding their frock coats and boards of directors are turning to colors and comfort. That is, they no longer "dress up" for business hours. The same is true of lawyers and doctors. Even clergymen show up in grays for street wear, along with professors and school teachers.

Man is more conservative than woman, who will wear anything or next to nothing if fashion so dictates. Nothing is too startling for them in colors or exposures. They have emancipated their legs from skirt bondage. What they will give up next for fashion's sake nobody knows. They have sufficiently demonstrated their willingness to be free of conventions - in dress at least.
 

Wednesday, July 31, 2019

A Glimpse into the Summers of Yesteryears

Sunday Morning Observer, July 28, 1918

My, oh my! How times do change!

There has come to be much of a change, and usually for the better, in summer habits and customs in Marietta. The season of heat here is sometimes harder to bear than the climate of the tropics is, especially at nighttime. But in the past 30 or 40 years we have partly relieved ourselves of some of its vexations and discomforts. 

If we turn our thoughts backward for a generation or more and think of Marietta as it was in the summer of, say, the Centennial year, 1888, we may see not a little of an improvement in our ideas of accommodating ourselves to the season. Most of that improvement has come about so gradually that the older part of the population have hardly been conscious of it, while the younger part, of course, can see hardly any of it in retrospect. Yet it is a fact that Marietta is more habitable, more comfortable, than it used to be in the June-July-August period, at least a consideration of some of the instances of the differences between a summer of the 1870s and the summer of 1918, warm as it is now becoming, will go far to confirm that judgment as to the fact.

Thus it used to be that the garb which men wore when the temperature was at its height was not conducive to physical ease or to serenity of temper. Lawyers, physicians and other professional men, as well as numerous business men, were often more interested in conventional dignity than in bodily comfort. They wore frock coats; they would not dispense with vests, and if such a man wore a seersucker coat, or even an ordinary sack coat, he was likely to feel that he was somewhat "lowering" himself or his standing in the community. Black silk hats were by no means uncommon, and the tall white hat was long a favorite.

Straw hats were numerous, but they did not make their general appearance so early as they do now. On the whole, they were not so well made, and among elderly gentlemen there were not half so many of them worn as there are today.

Thousands of men wore boots the year round. Most shoes were of black leather, and only young men, and comparatively few of them, put on tan or russet shoes. It was pretty much the same with shirts. They were almost invariably white, and usually they were starched and buttoned up the back. Anybody who was seen in a colored one was regarded as somewhat "sporty" and was likely to be viewed with disfavor by people of conservative taste who prided themselves on their "correct" habits. 

As for the stockings which are now worn with knickerbockers or short trousers by men who engage in out-of-tour pastimes or in pedestrian exercise or in lounging about rural retreats, they were known chiefly as part of the uniforms of professional baseball players. But anybody who might go about the streets in knee breeches and stockings was certain to be viewed as quite unconventional or would cause a jocular remark as to whether he might not be an escaped British dude in need of a keeper or that he might be perhaps a Lord Dundreary in his walking "duds."

There was then one garment which was much more worn than it is now, excepting by chauffeurs and motorcar owners, and that was the "duster." As a rule it seldom cost more than two or three dollars. It was of a white, yellowish-white or buff color, and the majority by far of men who traveled by rail or wagon were pretty sure to carry them on their arms as they hurried to or from the railroad stations. Much better railroad beds, much less soft coal, and much less dust have made this convenient protector of personal cleanliness far less needed than it used to be. 

What a contrast, for example, today on almost any train and a ride on the very best train, when an engine with a sprinkler would be sent ahead of it to water the tracks, although there was so much dust that despite all that was done to save passengers from discomfort and smudginess, they would usually arrive at their destination with necks and faces that looked as if a swarm of perspiring chimney sweeps were getting out of the train.

How hot our streets then were in some respects and how hard it was to keep the roadway free of dank and ill-smelling dirt, and the mud holes and chuckholes filled up! The new paving here and there, in that period was so far from being complete.

Ice was plentiful and cheap, although not more so than it has been in recent years. Palm leaf fans were much more used than they are now. Refrigerators had hardly ceased to be a luxury for only the rich and the bathrooms in which humble families might cool and refresh themselves were less than half as numerous as they have since become. 

It was then not uncommon for hundreds of boys and men to swim in front of the wharves at the foot of Front, Second and Fourth streets and at the foot of Putnam every summer evening, and they were not compelled to beware of a sudden onslaught by the police. Awnings over sidewalks for the protection of shops from the glare and heat of the sun were as numerous as they are in Havana and Naples. Sunstrokes of men and women on the streets were very much more often reported than they are now.

An auditorium such as that of a hall, a church or a theatre was often far more oppressive on a hot night than it is now. This was because gas light contributed somewhat to the warmth, and the fumes or smokiness of it increased the appearance and sense of oppressiveness.

Electric fans, such as we have today for cooling an office, a bed chamber, a dining room or any other apartment, have become the greatest means we have of making a torrid temperature bearable. But at the time we are speaking of, no such apparatus, with its countless revolutions started immediately by a touch of a button or a lever, had been invented. The nearest approach to it was the team power "fan" in a ceiling, usually of a store or spacious business room, together with the lazily moving small one which rested on counters, bars or dining room tables and which, being wound up for a certain time, like a clock, circulated the air sufficiently to keep flies away from its immediate vicinity. Ice by which the air might be cooled and then distributed from funnels or blowers, was tried time and again, but never with more than imperfect results, in attempts to make theatres comfortable for summer performances.

To housewives and servants, a kitchen with its coal fires was a Tophet-like place of dread, and the richest mistress of a mansion could not provide it with either the gas or electric stoves or the electric facilities which now enable so much of the domestic service in even plain or humble households to be performed in an atmosphere free of vapors, smells and blood-heat irritations and distress.

Most shops, industrial concerns and other places of business kept their employees on duty until six or seven o'clock. There were no Saturday half-holidays under the law, and it was only here and there in July and August that some employers would allow all hands to knock off at 3 P.M.

How much of an abatement, too, there has been in the mosquito and fly nuisance, bad enough as they still are. The swarms of insects have considerably diminished as a result of processes for destroying them and their breeding spots. Houses are better protected with nettings and screens, and it is possible to spend a whole summer in Marietta and suffer little or none of the torment which they once would inflict on everybody here.

And what a horror another kind of insect would be in our streets, especially to women and children - the dangling measuring worms, green, yellow or brown, that hung from the limbs of trees at the end of their own threads and got on the faces, necks and shoulders of those who walked through or under the maze of wrigglers!

Before the season of 1918 is at an end, Marietta may be as hot as usual. But has its summers ever been so bearable - at least relatively - as they have become in recent times?

W. S. S.

 

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Businesses of 1808

The Ohio Gazette & Virginia Herald, November 17, 1808

Lewis Anderson

Respectfully informs his friends and the public that he has recommenced the Tayloring Business, in the house formerly occupied by Dudley Woodbridge, Jr., on Ohio Street, where orders will be punctually attended to on the most reasonable terms, and every satisfaction given to the public in his power; which he presumes will not be underserving of their notice, from his general knowledge of his trade and his unremitted attention to business and constant endeavor to Please.


Case & Funk

Respectfully inform their friends and the public in general, that they have commenced the Boot and Shoe-Making Business, at the house formerly occupied by D. Woodbridge, Jr., as a store, on Ohio Street; where orders in their line of business will be thankfully received, and the work executed with neatness and punctuality.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Milliner and Mantuamaker

Marietta Gazette, April 30, 1836

The subscriber would respectfully inform the ladies of Marietta, and its vicinity, that she has just received the latest Fashions for Summer Bonnets and Dresses, and is now prepared to attend to all orders in the Milliner and Mantuamaking Business.  Grateful for past favors, she hopes by close application to business, and a strict attention to good taste, to secure a liberal share of patronage.  She intends to keep on hand a supply of silk bonnets and artificial flowers.  Five or six young ladies are wanted as apprentices.

Orinda H. King.
Marietta, April 30.